The Land
Most premier cru vineyards in Meursault are carved among a dozen or more owners. The Clos des Bouchères is the exception: a walled single parcel of about 1.38 hectares, worked by one domaine, set almost in the middle of the 4.24-hectare Bouchères climat and just upslope from Porusot. The hillside here sits around 260 meters with an east to southeast tilt and a gentle 10 percent grade. Topsoil is thin and stony over oolitic limestone, threaded with marl that carries fossilized clam shells, the same marly limestone band that runs under Genevrières and Gouttes d'Or. That mix of shallow rock and ancient seabed is where the salty, chalky grip of this Meursault premier cru white wine comes from.
The Wine
The Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères 2024 is 100 percent Chardonnay. Healthy fruit is crushed before pneumatic pressing for greener juice and a better pH. Fermentation runs on native yeasts, starting in stainless steel before the still-fermenting juice moves to barrel. Premier crus then spend about a year in barrel and several months in tank. The Clos ripens first of all Roulot's sites and is always the first parcel picked. 2024 brought cold, wet flowering and the heaviest mildew pressure Meursault growers had seen in a decade, and Burgundy's lowest yields since 1981, though Chardonnay held up far better than Pinot Noir. Expect yellow apple, lemon curd, crushed oyster shell, and flint, with a saline, chalky midpalate and a long, mouthwatering finish.
The People
For more than a century this clos belonged to the Manuel family, whose Domaine René Manuel dates to the late 1870s. In early 2011 a New York group led by sommelier Robert Bohr bought that estate and arranged 18-year leases splitting its vines between two Meursault neighbors, Dominique Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Jean-Marc Roulot. Roulot took the whole Clos des Bouchères plus half of the village Clos de la Baronne, trading away his own earlier Bouchères vines to keep the split even. 2011 became the first vintage bottled under the Clos des Bouchères name. Jean-Marc, who has run his family's estate since 1989 and farms organically, has since built it into one of the most sought-after bottles in his lineup. Because no one else farms this ground, it is the clearest single-site statement Roulot makes.
Food Pairing
The Clos has the density to stand up to butter and the acidity to cut straight through it. Poach thick halibut fillets and spoon over a beurre blanc sharpened with shallot and white wine vinegar; the wine's salinity frames the clean white fish. A veal blanquette with button mushrooms and pearl onions matches its creamy texture while the acidity keeps the sauce from feeling heavy. Linguine tossed with sea urchin, a little butter, and lemon zest leans into the oyster-shell side of the wine. Finish with a ripe Saint-Marcellin and a crusty baguette. Save it for the anniversary dinner you cook yourself, then talk about for a week.
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