Furmint

Furmint is Hungary's great white grape and the backbone of Tokaji. It ripens late, keeps searing acidity even when very ripe, and is highly susceptible to botrytis, which is why it makes the legendary sweet Tokaji Aszú, where shriveled berries give wines of honey, apricot, orange peel and enormous longevity. Dry Furmint has become a serious category in its own right: smoky, mineral and full-bodied, with quince, pear and lime, and a texture that rewards oak and age. Beyond Tokaj it grows in Somló, in Austria's Burgenland (as Zapfner) and in Slovenia (as Šipon).