The Land
Most people picture Chablis as the town on the Serein and the grand cru hillside rising behind it. Moreau-Naudet's village Chablis comes from quieter ground a few miles southwest, around Préhy and Courgis, on the edge of the appellation. The largest parcel, about 3.5 hectares, straddles the two villages on clay and limestone. These are cool, open slopes where Chardonnay ripens slowly and holds its acidity. In 2024 the location mattered more than usual: the spring hail that tore through the north of the appellation, including Fourchaume and parts of the grand crus, largely spared Préhy and Courgis. That luck is a big reason this bottle exists in a year when Chablis made less than half its usual crop.
The Wine
Moreau-Naudet Chablis 2024 is 100 percent Chardonnay, hand-picked and harvested slightly later than most neighbors, a house habit meant to bring fuller ripeness to a cool climate. It ferments with native yeasts and rests on its fine lees in stainless steel, with no oak. The long lees contact adds texture so the wine doesn't need wood for weight. The 2024 season delivered 27 percent more rain than usual, nearly 200 millimeters in May alone, and severe mildew; organic growers sprayed 20 to 25 times. Harvest began around September 19, and many wines finished between 12 and 12.8 percent alcohol. An early tasting of this wine found taut lemon citrus and chalk, white orchard fruit, and a faint touch of blossom honey on the finish. This is Chablis white wine built on tension rather than weight.
The People
The Moreau and Naudet families have made wine in Chablis since the 17th century, joined by marriage in 1950. Stéphane Moreau took over from his father, Roger, in 1991 after studying in Beaune. He idolized Vincent Dauvissat, Didier Dagueneau, and Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard, cut out insecticides and anti-rot sprays, and plowed four to five times a year. He died in his sleep at 47, just before the 2016 harvest. His widow, Virginie, has run the domaine since, with longtime cellar master Coco, and their daughter Nell joined in 2020. Virginie farms organically without certification and has moved more of the range into tank to protect the classic Chablis profile. The domaine now covers about 25 hectares.
Food Pairing
This Chablis wants food with salt and a little richness. Steamed mussels with shallots, white wine, and parsley match its saline edge, and the acidity cuts through the buttery broth. Pan-fried trout with brown butter and toasted almonds works because the lemony brightness lifts the nutty fat. Warm gougères made with Comté set off the wine's chalky finish. For something casual, a Caesar salad with real anchovy and shaved parmesan meets the wine's mineral bite head on. Keep it cold in the fridge door for any night that starts with something from the sea.
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